Lazy Sunday Austrian Lunch at Heuriger

Heuriger (호어리거)

서울특별시 종로구 사직로10길 7

7 Sajik-ro 10-gil

Jongno-gu, Seoul

South Korea

Naver Maps // Google Maps

Lunch Set (15,000won)

Main dishes from 20~ 

I can’t quite put into words how dignified (and silly for feeling so damn dignified) I felt when I told Lee about how we “actually need” to check out Heuriger for a review (AND that we’ll get compensated!).  I mean it’s not quite at the level of getting paid to eat (a girl can dream), but still it was definitely a glorifying moment worth gloating over.

Reaffirming his belief that I’m indeed an alcoholic, I explained to him on our way to the restaurant what Heuriger is. It actually refers to an Austrian wine tavern, where you can sample the most recently harvested wine with few simple options for food. I was lucky enough to have visited one during my last visit to Vienna. Despite most of my memories being either “lost” or faded after the shocking amount of wine I managed to squeeze into my body, I still distinctly remember the  friendly and easy-going charm of the tavern that warmed my (already tinted) cheeks.

That’s why as I approached Heuriger, I was surprised to see a familiar looking hanok (Korean traditional house).  But stepping into the hanok, we were left even more perplexed and utterly lost for words in a mini-courtyard covered in grape-vines.  Heuriger, definitely has one of the oddest mix of atmosphere for sure.  We sat down whilst German yodels were being played in the back-ground once in a while accompanied by the sound of mosquitoes being fried in the electric catcher. Oh and then there was a random print of Audrey Hepburn as well.

What a strange place! 

May Lunch Menu Set - which apparently is the same for June 

The lunch-set at Heuriger is a bargain at 15,000 won for a 2-course meal of appetizer and main (with salad) followed by either espresso or a vienna coffee.  The lunch menu changes slightly each month but they still serve normal dishes/mains from the menu as well.  They also seem to have a proper wine-list, and we should’ve totally examined it before blindly following the waitress’s suggestion of the house white. It’s not that we’re bunch of wine-snobs, but I’m pretty sure serving white-wine with ice (which in this heat is basically water) is not the norm… Anyhow I guess it is still a valuable (yet unnecessary) lesson learnt.  We decided to go for Rindgulach mit Nudeln and  Schweinsbraten mit Servittenknodel, or more commonly known as Beef Goulash with Noodles and Roast Pork Neck with bread buddings. 

The appetizer was Mussels with Bread (Cozze de Mare mit Brot). It was a refreshing and light start with the fresh mussels and shrimps going really well with the simple dressing. Despite the strong start, the bread-basket and the green salad was a disappointment. I had really hoped for a hearty rich German bread and a proper (no lettuce) salad, so we were thoroughly disappointed when we were served toasted white bread with lettuce salad in yogurt dressing instead. At least it paired particularly well with our watery wine.

I should've never listened... Wine with Ice in this heat = wine-flavoured water!

Our rather disappointing non-artisan white bread...

After being a little disappointed, I was more than find the two main-dishes to meet our expectations. The goulash was particularly good as the rich and deep tomato flavours really complimented the soft beef chunks. The pork was also cooked perfectly but we found the sauce that it was served with a little bland. I found both dishes a little cold but was thoroughly satisfied with both of my meals.  It was Lee’s first time trying Austrian cuisine, and I think he enjoyed his dishes as well! Funnily enough, our (secretly) favourite part of the main dishes were these amazing homemade spicy pickles that were served on the side. The lunch-portions (may be due to the price) are also not that substantial unlike the country’s reputation for large hearty meals.  This actually worked out alright because we still had enough space for a dessert after our mains.

Schweinsbraten mit Servittenknodel

Rindgulach mit Nudeln

Considering more of a research for a pancake challenge than an indulgence, we ordered the Austrian King Panckae (Kaiserchmarnn Klein) for 7,000 won. Kaiserchmarnn is an Austrian torn pancakes with Raisins covered with powdered sugar and it was definitely our favourite dish of the day. We ate it with so much enthusiasm and endless compliments over the fluffiness, the raisins, the perfectly balanced sweetness. WE are definitely going to make this as part of our challenge!  Later on I found out on the internet that the raisins are often soaked in rum (no wonder why we loved it so much)!

Austrian Pancakes! 

Overall, I definitely enjoyed our lunch at Heuriger! I think it more than delivers its value for the price, but I do want to try out the main-dishes and some of their wines next time during dinner. Oh but no matter when you visit, you really really do have to try their dessert.

 (Here you can see the full menu) 

And to finish it off, here's a photo of us looking rather pleased with our first Austrian lunch together - I mean look at Lee's smirk  :)

ShinShin (신신) - Spicy Beef Stew to sweat out your frustration

신신 辛辛 (ShinShin)

서울특별시 중구 남대문로 64

02-773-4842

64 Namdaemun-ro

Jung-gu, Seoul

Naver Maps// Google Maps

"You sure? It's really spicy" She said quickly glancing at Lee and his full-scale (glittering) paleness. For a minute, I wasn't too sure myself. Could Lee really handle level 3? A level they said corresponds to 3 times the spiciness of Shin-ramen?  Then I thought why not - it would be incredibly racist of me if I didn’t subject my boyfriend to his fair share of spiciness right? Plus he did manage to eat level 2 without weeping or breaking down…

I’ve returned to 신신 (辛辛) – ShinShin (Chinese character for spicy) in myeongdong couple of times, always seeking that thrill and odd sense of release you feel after sweating through a meal. Unlike other restaurants specializing in spicy food, which sometimes I find totally lack any other flavors besides the painful burning sensation,  ShinShin’s beef stew has a good blend of flavors and delicious to eat!

If you choose to go for the spicy beef stew / 매운갈비찜 (M (35,000) for 2-3 ,  or L(45,000) for 4-5), there are 5 levels of spiciness you can choose from  (1 – equivalent to Shiramen, 2 – 3 times Shinramen , 3 – Imagine Shinramen with Extra chili flakes  + Chilies and so forth). Last time we had gone for the level 2, which was still surprisingly spicy but enjoyable for the both of us (although I admit, lee is better than lots of Koreans with spicy food).

The stew come to the table ready to eat with fresh scallions piled on top. Usually the server removed the bones from the beef and even cuts it into bite-size pieces too! I think shinshin's portions are proportionate to the price you pay, as you get a fair share of beef as well as copious amount of bean sprouts, scallions and other vegetables. I usually end up pretty full by the end of the meal (although it may be the beer we chug down as a necessity to alleviate the spiciness). The best way, in my opinion, to eat this is by making a mini sweweed-roll, radish roll (무쌈) or throw it all in roll. The owners refill the seaweed and side-dishes without a fuss so don't worry about asking for more. If you're feeling extra adventurous, you can dip the beef into the hot-sauce they give (because... well if you're going to tear up you might as well go all the way). 

By the time we're half way through our table is usually littered with beer and tissues. We usually begin fishing for beef / bean sprouts in the sea of ominously red soup and soon after Lee begins to dive into the path of self-destruction by 'attempting' to drink the soup. Despite the schadenfreude i feel watching him sweat, this is usually when I intervene and ask the owners to take the soup away and make us fried rice. 

After waiting for few minutes during which you partially regain control of your tongue nerves and begin to sweat slightly less, the fried rice arrives (with the big bowl of left over soup). The fried rice is surprisingly not spicy at all (or it may just be our numbed taste-buds) so we usually pour some of the soup back and eat it together.

Shishin is definitely one of my favourite dinner/lunch places around this neighborhood to go to. Despite being centrally located in Myeongdong, it's never really too crowded (but always occupied) and still has that sense of your secret weapon to show off to naive visitors who think they are good with spicy food.

The Aftermath

Authentic (and asian-ghetto) Chicken Stew (닭도리탕/Dak Doritang) in the back alleyways of Seoul

계림닭도리탕 - Gaerim Chicken Stew

 

서울특별시 종로구 종로3가 167 (돈화문로4길 39)

167 Jongno 3(sam)-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul, South Korea

google map// naver map

+82 2 2263 6658

Open MON- SAT from 11:30 ~ 22:00  (Closed on Sunday)

Chicken Stew (닭도리탕): 19,000 WON (+2,000 for noodles/ramen/rice etc.)

Drinks: Beer, Soju etc. (~3,000 WON)

Is it weird that I actively search out restaurants that have been around for longer than my parent’s lifespan never mind mine? I understand that age doesn’t always correlate to quality, but there’s something about a restaurant that’s been around for 50 plus years and stood the testament of time that promises a good meal. Especially if it’s a nitty-gritty blue-collar restaurant tucked away in the alleys of Jong-ro.

It’s been a while since I blogged, and I think this one is a good one to re-immerse myself in documenting the travels through the hidden dark alleys of Seoul spooking all those that I’ve invited to partake in this mini adventure!

The restaurant I’m writing about has been around for more than 50 years and the authenticity of the food and the history proves that it’s not some ‘number’ made up for advertisement purposes (as well as the décor and the aged patrons downing soju like it’s sprite).

The place is a little tricky to find – the easiest way is to walk out of exit 12 of Jonro-3ga (종로3가) walk straight until you see am opening along the main road to the right in between buildings (see the map below for reference!) Sneak inside the alleyway and you’ll soon find a long narrow alley parallel to the main road. Continue walking past dodgy businesses and restaurants and you’ll soon come across a bustling restaurant with a sign!

 

Although many of you think Koreans are all about the endless numbers of banchan (side-dishes), this place only gives you two – raddish kimchi (깍두기) and beansprouts. The menu doesn’t really give you any choices either. There’s couple of lunch options but at night there’s only one thing on the menu, the eponymous 닭도리탕 (Dak Doritang) for 19,000 WON. The portion should be enough for 2-3 people, as you can add 사리 (sari) in forms of either fried rice (w/ the sauce) or addition of hand-noodles. Just a little bit of history to note, 닭도리탕 is actually Japanese/Korean stemming from the word Toriniku (chicken meat). As such nowadays people tend to call it 닭볶음탕 rather than the former name. 

The place gets filled up crazy fast after 7PM and queues begin to form (even on weekdays) so make sure you come between 6-7PM if you want to be seated straight away. 

After being seated and ordering the only thing on the menu, soon the ladies bring out a beaten pot filled with horrifying (or awe-inspring) amount of garlic in a red sea of chicken, potato and rice cakes. We did worry a little when we first went that it’ll be numbingly spicy and overwhelming but surprisingly it’s hardly spicy and the garlic flavour is well balanced by the stew! It’s really odd actually knowing how much garlic went in!

After waiting for a while – you’re ready to dig in! Actually the rice-cakes (떡) received the most compliment! Unlike the generic store-bought ones you get everywhere, it had a really chewy and soft texture. Also the stew has quite a lot of chicken. Also the CHICKEN is so MOIST and TENDER! It’s often I find the chicken in seoul to be way to dry and tough… but the chicken they use here is a perfect combination of lean meat and fat that you end up sucking all the meat off each bone…

The building spiciness usually calls for soju and beer – and although I am a bonafide ‘wine-whale’, there’s something about spicy Korean food that matches beautifully with soju and cold beer. Maybe it’s the old man inside me that craves these releases of spicy no-bullshit 아저씨 food w/ soju… Personally I blame my dad for  raising his daughter to be his drinking buddy.

Anyways – this is my favourite find recently! And despite the copious bottles of soju/beer all of us were really refereshed the next day. I think the supposed super ‘health benefits’ of garlic must’ve helped….

So for those of you daring enough to venture into the back alleys of Seoul –this is definitely the place for you!

And on that note this is the end of my entry! I’m not sure who read these anymore.. but I think I’m on a roll with going to these grungy/off-the-beaten-path Korean restaurants.. if you have any recommendations or would like suggestions just let me know… (or if you also like hunting down sketchy but ridiculously yummy korean food- let’s go together cause sometimes venturing out into dark alleys alone can be a lil scary at night)

Okawa Sushi

오가와 (おがわ) - Okawa Sushi

B1F 서울특별시 종로구 당주동 5 (새문안로5길 19)

5 Dangju-dong,

Jongno-gu, Seoul, SOUTH KOREA

google map// naver map

+822 735 1001

Lunch: 11 AM or 1 PM

Dinner: 6:00PM or 8:00PM

(Always call to reserve) 

Lunch Set: 40,000 WON 

Dinner Set: 60,000 WON 

Drinks: Beer, Sake, Soju etc. (we went for sake - which came in a big glass! I thin it was around 5,000won - 7,000won) 

This tiny place is literally 5 min walk from my house that I wish that it was cheap enough to be my 'go to sushi place' but sadly a little too price-y for me to be a regular... However, I've completely stopped eating crap sushi (whether for lunch or dinner) just so that once in a while when the occasion comes along to impress someone with lunch/dinner... I immediately take the initiative to make the booking before it gets full.

I'm sure there will are couple (not plenty) of other places in Seoul where you can find just as high quality (and maybe MAYBE even better) sushi... but definitely not a this price level! You are fed with so much sushi (good sushi that is) that you leave the restaurant not regretting a single WON you have just spent on the meal. It is truly a bargain for the quality and most of all (my favourite actually) the overall atmosphere and experience... It's just one of those few restaurants you can truly have a 'special' and 'intimate' dinner with friends or family without having to worry about whether you are wearing the right clothes, with the right people, holding your utensils correctly or not.. And most of all not be hurried to finish your food at a ridiculous rate and move to the next destination!

In other words it's simply DIVINE! 

The set lunch starts with porridge, small portion of salad and miso soup and as you watch in absolute awe (I never stop being impressed) your chef begins preparing your lunch right in front of you.

How can you NOT get excited when there's this happening?

He lays each sushi one at a time carefully explaining each dish and how it was prepared and how it should be eaten.

I always ask if I can have close-to-nothing rice as I realize many times that there is absolutely no way for me to finish the whole lunch set otherwise... (and i'd rather give up the rice to eat MORE sushi)

We also ordered glasses of sake for each of us and it was actually really nice and went well with the cold sushi. We had initially thought that it was flower petals floating on top of the sake but we quickly realised that they were dried fish fins that gave the sake the slightest fishy-flavour, which surprisingly was not ghastly or weird!

My brother was impressed :P

After what feels like an endless servings of so many different types of fish (you start loosing track of how many you ate!) Final serving of warm udon that I personally find so so delicious and wish that I had a bigger stomach to finish.... and then voila~ you are done! 

I keep on finding myself returning to this same place over and over again despite my usual habit of never settling on one restaurant.. I know whenever I go and whoever I go with.. the experience will as marvellous (if not better) than last time... and that in a fast paced and rapidly changing city like Seoul is something that should be cherished.