Ojang-dong Hamheung Naengmyeon - Best in Seoul!

오장동흥남집  (Ojang-dong, HeungnamJib) 

90-10 Ojang-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea +82 2-2267-9500

In my office, you must be well prepared to talk about good Naengmyeon in Seoul. Maybe because it's filled with older generation ahjussi and our proximity to 2 of the reputed 5 best ones in Seoul. Everyone has their favourite that is always better than others (and if you don't agree - you're just too young to taste properly).

There are actually different types Naengmyeon (냉면) usually differentiated by the regions they come from. The more well known ones are 평양냉면 (Pyeongyang Naengmyeon) and 함흥냉면 (Hamheung Naengmyeon). 평양냉면 has more subtle (some may even argue bland – but that’s blasphemous) broth, where as 함흥냉면 (originated from 함흥 province up in N.Korea) is known for its tougher and thinner noodles.

As it is with lots of famous Korean food, there’s a small area in Seoul called 오장동 (near Dongdaemun) where the 3 most famous 함흥냉면 restaurants are located. Now, I am not qualified in both age and knowledge to rank the three, but my favourite (following the advice of my grandpa) is definitely 오장동 함흥집 (which is the FIRST among the 3 to be established!)  

오장동 함흥집 has been operating for over 62 years since the first owner brought the recipe with her when she came down from North Korea! It’s usually super busy during lunch and dinner so it’s best to go either a little earlier!

The menu is rather straight forward with 5 types of Naengmyeon being offered (Sashimi, Beef, Mixed, Warm Soup, Mul Naengmyeon) at 9,000 KRW (you can also order more noodles too). You’d be quite silly to other anything but the house special which is회냉면 (sashimi) which comes with Sole Sashimi.

You also get served with warm broth to drink from a cup! It’s really rich and rather salty but goes perfectly with the slightly spicy naengmyeon. The noodles are also much tougher than your usual ones as it is made from sweet potato instead of potato starch.

I can’t quite describe what the sauce tastes of but it is just a perfect blend of garlic, fish-sauce, chili and sugar that it really just hits the spot! You should mix in 겨자 (korean mustard sauce), vinegar, sesame oil and sugar adjusted to your preference.

If you’ve been in Korea and have only tried the typical 물냉면 from the franchises – you should make your way to try the 회냉면 here. It’s definitely a taste you’ll remember and crave as time goes on!

Hiking at Mt. Cheonggye (청계산)

Easy hiking near Seoul  (Cheonggyesan/청계산) 

After a rather embarrassing mishap of missing our bus for a hiking weekend, I found myself stranded outside Jamsil Sports Complex Station with a bag full of packed lunch & snacks (and an extremely disappointed looking boyfriend). So sitting outside the station at 7:36 AM on a Saturday morning, I knew I had to think of a quick alternative before it began to bring down our “FUN WEEKEND” mood.

Despite there being many many options for a hike around Seoul, we had already done the ‘famous ones’ or the ones that warranted a full day of rigorous hiking (and PACKED LUNCHES).  Thankfully after looking at Naver Maps for nearby hikes + blogs for trails, I found a nice alternative nearby Gwacheon (below Yangjae/Gangnam)

Mt. Cheonggye’s peak called Maebong (매봉) and it is a relatively moderate and short hike to the top. There’s couple of different routes you can take to get to the peak – and they have you getting off at different stations, but we took the most straightforward option of taking the 신분당선 (Shinbundang) line after changing from Gangnam Station to 청계산입구 (Cheonggyesan). This starts you from 원터골 입구and takes around 1hour 20 min to the top (total of 3,000m) 

When you exit the station, it’s only a 5 min walk (just follow the trail of Korean hikers) until you reach the entrance, where you can spot a big map showing all the possible routes.  Although there are little mini-maps throughout the hike, it’s really useful if you have stop to take a photo and just have a reference of where you’d like to go/follow!

We started from the 원터골 입구 (Wontagol Entrance) and made our way up to the peak . The day was painfully hot so despite the hike not being that rigorous we found the first part of the hike a little tough to bear. Despite that being said, this hike doesn’t have any sudden inclines or declines so it was relatively easy to pace ourselves up to the top.

 We made it to the top in 1-2 hours with mini breaks in between and grabbed lunch near the top in the shades. Cheonggyesan actually had a lot of little side areas with enough shades and space for a cozy lunch, which was a great change from other popular mountains.  They even sold ice-cold makgeolli on the top but tragically  neither of us had any cash and had to resort to watching other hikers gulping down it down with the biggest smiles on their faces.  The view from the peak is spectacular as you can really see the whole of Seoul as well as the surrounding 경기도. 

Posing at the Top of the Mountain! :D 

There’s a lot more options available for the descent – you can either choose to go down via Jindale Ridge and arrive at the same spot – or take a  slight detour and finish up in Chonggyegol Entrance, or do what we did and take a really long detour (for another 2-3 hours) going pass Oknyeobong (375m) down near 양재 station (Yangjae).

  

We somehow finished up near by what looked like an industrial site – so next time maybe we’ll take the more scenic *but shorter* route down the Jindale ridge instead!! 

Finding Bánh mì at Lie Lie Lie

Lie Lie Lie (라이 라이 라이)

서울시 마포구 연남동 227-5

(Google Maps//Naver Maps)

Open from 12PM – 9PM (closed on Mondays)

Despite Bánh mì being well-known and relatively easy to make, it had surprisingly not surfaced in Seoul’s restaurant scene until recently. Bánh mì, also known as the Vietnamese Sandwich, is sandwich that usually comes in a form of simple French baguette with cold cut meat, pate, fresh vegetables (carrots/lettuce/cucumber) and (usually) a huge serving of cilantro/coriander.

That’s why when I heard about LieLieLie opening up across from my favourite coffee shop in 연남동 (Yeonnamdong) that rumour had sold reasonably authentic/cheap (you can’t REALLY compare it the prices/taste back in Vietnam) Bánh mì, I happily dragged a friend all the way up from Incheon for lunch.

The tiny restaurant somehow has that lazy & summery feel of Vietnam with its red peeling walls, basic plastic plates/utensils, piles of baguette on the sides and make-shift tables and boxes everywhere.  I really did feel as if I’m in Vietnam or at least on a holiday leisurely sitting down on the floor eating these amazing sandwiches.

The restaurant serves 4 different types of Bánh mì for 5,550 KRW (+500 for Chicken liver pate).  The 4 options include Cold Cut, Spicy Pork, Vegetarian and Grilled Chicken.  They also sell Chang beer for 4,500 if you want to really go for the whole package

 We chose to share Spicy Pork and Cold Cut sandwiches and they both were fantastic.  The spicy pork is actually quite spicy and has a finishing kick that builds (full of chili sauce) so if you’re not too good with spicy food stay away. We got ours loaded with coriander, but the server was attentive enough to ask whether we wanted them in or not (I heard many Koreans can’t stand the stuff).

I really regretted not opting to add in the chicken liver pate and nearly contemplated sharing another sandwich as the portions are really not that big. I can easily see an adult male (or anyone who’s more than hungry) eating two!  I mean the prices allow for you to easily justify eating more than one.

Despite the temptation, we opted out to take a long walk into Hongdae and find ourselves an afternoon dessert, which actually turned into a beer at Magpie. Either way, I will definitely return to this little joint either to take a cheap vacation to Vietnam or simply to enjoy a good light lunch/dinner without breaking the wallet! 

 It should be noted that the restaurant is right across Coffee Libre, which is my favourite coffe shop in Korea that makes the best latte.  Also it is right across 동진시장 (dongjin market), which is a mini-flea market that opens every Saturday! That's what my friend and I did and we definitely left the place with a huge smile :)

Our First Bourbon Meeting in Seoul!

Despite the endless perks that came with growing up in Europe, I recently realized that it had left me rather clueless to a whole world of bourbons in the other side of the world.  I mean it’s not that I’m complaining, having access to your dad’s whiskey cabinet is great especially if he has a taste for Scotch Whisky (and in particular single malt!).  Which is why, I remember when I had my first proper Old Fashioned made with Maker’s Mark, I was surprised to how easily and quickly it became my favourite cocktail. There’s something that’s mischievously silky and incredibly smooth and deep about the Maker’s Mark that you can’t really find in a Scotch that I simply adore.

Things quickly escalated from my first drink and I soon joined a bourbon club (Korea Bourbon Club) on meetup and made it my annual bucket-list item to attend one of their tastings. The organizer, Mark, has events running around once a month at various venues. I’ve been dying to go since the beginning of the year, but my schedule always seemed to clash with the planned monthly events (that and I was secretly terrified of attending alone without much knowledge of bourbon). Which was why when I finally acquired and tested (HE LIKES WHISKEY TOO) the confirmed side kick/boyfriend, who was equally naïve in regards to bourbon, we scheduled in our first ever bourbon tasting.

I was actually really worried I’ll look foolish and silly for my lack of knowledge in between experts and connoisseurs but the event was actually a lot of fun and informative! Mark and his wife was there to greet us at All that Meat (압구정 / Apgujeong) and immediately made us relax with their easy demeanors.  In total 6 of us were there for the meet-up (Mark told us that it usually was 6 – 8 people per meetup). The evening actually was actually really relaxed evening of conversations on various topics ranging from obviously alcohol, politics, Korea etc. with Mark’s instruction/notes on each Bourbon as we slowly progressed through the dinner and drinks.

The menu for the tasting was as following for 70,000 won per person:

Dinner Menu:

• Abalone Shrimp Cevice

• Foie Gras Cranberry Pie 

• Ceasar Salad

• BBQ Combo Platter: Beef Brisket, Pork Rib, Smoked Duck, Smoked Pigs Feet

• Escargot & Mushroom Pizza

• Creme brulee or Brownie with Ice-cream

Tasting Flight: 

• Maker's Mark

• Maker's 46

• Buffalo Trace

• Blanton's 

• Four Roses Single Barrel

The food was terrific, although Lee definitely noticed it more as I was too absorbed in my drinks / various historical and tasting-notes on each drinks.  Rather than it being overly technical, Mark provided us real easy cues to look for in terms of flavours (he even provided us with info-sheet on each explaining the content/flavours etc.) Also he walked us through how we should approach first smelling and then tasting the bourbon (straight).

Having only have tasted Maker’s Mark out of the 5 bourbons, I was delighted to taste and smell such a surprisingly distinct variety of profiles. Nonetheless, my favourite of the night was Maker’s 46, which was much smoother and had stronger scent of Vanilla than Maker’s Mark.  Apparently, there’s currently no major distributor/importer carrying Maker’s 46 (even finding Maker’s Mark is difficult) so it’s definitely an item I’ll be looking for next time I step outside the country. Lee’s favourite was Blanton’s, which I thought had the sharp taste profile similar to scotch whiskey than others. Each bottle’s detail in design and bottling was immaculate and scarily enough I could see myself starting to collect them if it becomes easier to get my hands on them!

What we had feared to be an overly technical and rather ‘difficult’ evening turned out to be one of the best dinner parties I’ve been to all year. I’m definitely looking forward to the next meet up and in the meanwhile upping our bourbon game! (OLD FASHIONED WITH CARDAMOM BITTERS & MAPLE SYRUP)

If you’re interested in bourbon (with or without much knowledge on it), you should definitely come around for a tasting and enjoy the night at what I think is a great –valued deal.

Lazy Sunday Austrian Lunch at Heuriger

Heuriger (호어리거)

서울특별시 종로구 사직로10길 7

7 Sajik-ro 10-gil

Jongno-gu, Seoul

South Korea

Naver Maps // Google Maps

Lunch Set (15,000won)

Main dishes from 20~ 

I can’t quite put into words how dignified (and silly for feeling so damn dignified) I felt when I told Lee about how we “actually need” to check out Heuriger for a review (AND that we’ll get compensated!).  I mean it’s not quite at the level of getting paid to eat (a girl can dream), but still it was definitely a glorifying moment worth gloating over.

Reaffirming his belief that I’m indeed an alcoholic, I explained to him on our way to the restaurant what Heuriger is. It actually refers to an Austrian wine tavern, where you can sample the most recently harvested wine with few simple options for food. I was lucky enough to have visited one during my last visit to Vienna. Despite most of my memories being either “lost” or faded after the shocking amount of wine I managed to squeeze into my body, I still distinctly remember the  friendly and easy-going charm of the tavern that warmed my (already tinted) cheeks.

That’s why as I approached Heuriger, I was surprised to see a familiar looking hanok (Korean traditional house).  But stepping into the hanok, we were left even more perplexed and utterly lost for words in a mini-courtyard covered in grape-vines.  Heuriger, definitely has one of the oddest mix of atmosphere for sure.  We sat down whilst German yodels were being played in the back-ground once in a while accompanied by the sound of mosquitoes being fried in the electric catcher. Oh and then there was a random print of Audrey Hepburn as well.

What a strange place! 

May Lunch Menu Set - which apparently is the same for June 

The lunch-set at Heuriger is a bargain at 15,000 won for a 2-course meal of appetizer and main (with salad) followed by either espresso or a vienna coffee.  The lunch menu changes slightly each month but they still serve normal dishes/mains from the menu as well.  They also seem to have a proper wine-list, and we should’ve totally examined it before blindly following the waitress’s suggestion of the house white. It’s not that we’re bunch of wine-snobs, but I’m pretty sure serving white-wine with ice (which in this heat is basically water) is not the norm… Anyhow I guess it is still a valuable (yet unnecessary) lesson learnt.  We decided to go for Rindgulach mit Nudeln and  Schweinsbraten mit Servittenknodel, or more commonly known as Beef Goulash with Noodles and Roast Pork Neck with bread buddings. 

The appetizer was Mussels with Bread (Cozze de Mare mit Brot). It was a refreshing and light start with the fresh mussels and shrimps going really well with the simple dressing. Despite the strong start, the bread-basket and the green salad was a disappointment. I had really hoped for a hearty rich German bread and a proper (no lettuce) salad, so we were thoroughly disappointed when we were served toasted white bread with lettuce salad in yogurt dressing instead. At least it paired particularly well with our watery wine.

I should've never listened... Wine with Ice in this heat = wine-flavoured water!

Our rather disappointing non-artisan white bread...

After being a little disappointed, I was more than find the two main-dishes to meet our expectations. The goulash was particularly good as the rich and deep tomato flavours really complimented the soft beef chunks. The pork was also cooked perfectly but we found the sauce that it was served with a little bland. I found both dishes a little cold but was thoroughly satisfied with both of my meals.  It was Lee’s first time trying Austrian cuisine, and I think he enjoyed his dishes as well! Funnily enough, our (secretly) favourite part of the main dishes were these amazing homemade spicy pickles that were served on the side. The lunch-portions (may be due to the price) are also not that substantial unlike the country’s reputation for large hearty meals.  This actually worked out alright because we still had enough space for a dessert after our mains.

Schweinsbraten mit Servittenknodel

Rindgulach mit Nudeln

Considering more of a research for a pancake challenge than an indulgence, we ordered the Austrian King Panckae (Kaiserchmarnn Klein) for 7,000 won. Kaiserchmarnn is an Austrian torn pancakes with Raisins covered with powdered sugar and it was definitely our favourite dish of the day. We ate it with so much enthusiasm and endless compliments over the fluffiness, the raisins, the perfectly balanced sweetness. WE are definitely going to make this as part of our challenge!  Later on I found out on the internet that the raisins are often soaked in rum (no wonder why we loved it so much)!

Austrian Pancakes! 

Overall, I definitely enjoyed our lunch at Heuriger! I think it more than delivers its value for the price, but I do want to try out the main-dishes and some of their wines next time during dinner. Oh but no matter when you visit, you really really do have to try their dessert.

 (Here you can see the full menu) 

And to finish it off, here's a photo of us looking rather pleased with our first Austrian lunch together - I mean look at Lee's smirk  :)

ShinShin (신신) - Spicy Beef Stew to sweat out your frustration

신신 辛辛 (ShinShin)

서울특별시 중구 남대문로 64

02-773-4842

64 Namdaemun-ro

Jung-gu, Seoul

Naver Maps// Google Maps

"You sure? It's really spicy" She said quickly glancing at Lee and his full-scale (glittering) paleness. For a minute, I wasn't too sure myself. Could Lee really handle level 3? A level they said corresponds to 3 times the spiciness of Shin-ramen?  Then I thought why not - it would be incredibly racist of me if I didn’t subject my boyfriend to his fair share of spiciness right? Plus he did manage to eat level 2 without weeping or breaking down…

I’ve returned to 신신 (辛辛) – ShinShin (Chinese character for spicy) in myeongdong couple of times, always seeking that thrill and odd sense of release you feel after sweating through a meal. Unlike other restaurants specializing in spicy food, which sometimes I find totally lack any other flavors besides the painful burning sensation,  ShinShin’s beef stew has a good blend of flavors and delicious to eat!

If you choose to go for the spicy beef stew / 매운갈비찜 (M (35,000) for 2-3 ,  or L(45,000) for 4-5), there are 5 levels of spiciness you can choose from  (1 – equivalent to Shiramen, 2 – 3 times Shinramen , 3 – Imagine Shinramen with Extra chili flakes  + Chilies and so forth). Last time we had gone for the level 2, which was still surprisingly spicy but enjoyable for the both of us (although I admit, lee is better than lots of Koreans with spicy food).

The stew come to the table ready to eat with fresh scallions piled on top. Usually the server removed the bones from the beef and even cuts it into bite-size pieces too! I think shinshin's portions are proportionate to the price you pay, as you get a fair share of beef as well as copious amount of bean sprouts, scallions and other vegetables. I usually end up pretty full by the end of the meal (although it may be the beer we chug down as a necessity to alleviate the spiciness). The best way, in my opinion, to eat this is by making a mini sweweed-roll, radish roll (무쌈) or throw it all in roll. The owners refill the seaweed and side-dishes without a fuss so don't worry about asking for more. If you're feeling extra adventurous, you can dip the beef into the hot-sauce they give (because... well if you're going to tear up you might as well go all the way). 

By the time we're half way through our table is usually littered with beer and tissues. We usually begin fishing for beef / bean sprouts in the sea of ominously red soup and soon after Lee begins to dive into the path of self-destruction by 'attempting' to drink the soup. Despite the schadenfreude i feel watching him sweat, this is usually when I intervene and ask the owners to take the soup away and make us fried rice. 

After waiting for few minutes during which you partially regain control of your tongue nerves and begin to sweat slightly less, the fried rice arrives (with the big bowl of left over soup). The fried rice is surprisingly not spicy at all (or it may just be our numbed taste-buds) so we usually pour some of the soup back and eat it together.

Shishin is definitely one of my favourite dinner/lunch places around this neighborhood to go to. Despite being centrally located in Myeongdong, it's never really too crowded (but always occupied) and still has that sense of your secret weapon to show off to naive visitors who think they are good with spicy food.

The Aftermath

Miko: Japanese Molecular cuisine in Cheongdam-Dong

Miko (미코)

서울특별시 강남구 도산대로85길 14

122-7 Cheongdam-dong

Gangnam-gu, Seoul

02-3446-1227

(Naver Maps // Google Maps)

Once a year, Hyundai Card holds a 'gourmet week' during which quite a large number of well-establisehd and renowned restaurants in Seoul/Busan offer 50% discount on special menus/dishes for members. Having missed it last year, I made sure it was my one of my top-priority to choose a speical restaurant that is normally not as easily accessible/affordable.

The list was actually quite extensive for Seoul both in terms of locations and cuisine. There's quite a lot of French restaurants and modern Korean cuisines, and if I were a little more sparing with my spending, I would've probably tried a couple more! After researching couple of options, I was torn between Miko and 콩두 (congdu) - Korean modern cuisine overlooking Duksugung palace! Although I'm pretty sure sooner than later, I'll have Lee try out 'fancy korean' in addition to all the grungy back-street versions I get him to try.

Miko is restaraunt run by the renowned chef 신동민, who is knwon for molecular cooking in his previously acclaimed haute-japanese molecular restaurant 슈밍화 (closed now). Miko was opened as a slightly more 'casual' version of 슈밍화, and it's already gaining popularity from either previous fans of 슈밍화 or new diners (such as myself!).

I admitt, I didn't (and still don't) really know enough about molecular cooking. It occupies the same space as 'haute-cuisine' or 'modern' / 'fine dining', which usually means incredibly expensive meals for protions so teasingly small that you finish the meal feeling confused as to whether you've had a full meal or not. Having said that, the dinner we had that night was actually really enjoyable and casual whilst maintaining its 'uniqueness' that it left us thoroughly impressed and actually rather full (although...lee did eat most of my noodles and rice).

The special dinner course for Gourmet week was 120,000 won (60 k each with 50% discount) for a 10 course meal (and fresh king oyster in the start as service :D )

1. Appetizer
2. Salad
3. Sashimi
4. Syphon Soup
5. Rose King Shrimp
6. Beef Tadaki
7. Sea Urchin Rice
8. Udon
9. Dessert A
10. Dessert B

The meals were spectacular & we got to dress up a little  (which means.. Lee wears his beloved bowtie)



Oyster (Service) - Incredibly fresh and lightly seasoned. It was a delight to begin the evening with an oyster!

Appetiser: Chinese Yam Tofu, Abalone with gingko nut, Watermelon Soup, Cherry tomato with balsamic dressing

Salad: Noodle Salad with roe, ginger, tomato and yuzu dressing

Sashimi: Seabass, Salmon and Halibut 

Syphon Soup served with Shrimp Wonton and Lotus Root Dumplings

Who knew you could use this besides brewing coffee!! 

Rose King Shrimp Tempura: One of my favourite of the night despite the fact that I usually am not the biggest fan of fried food! The shrimp had this unbelievable chewy texture and flavours that went beautifully with the tomato-based sauce. Absolutely divine.

Beef Tadaki - Lee's favourite meal of the night. The steak was incredibly juicy and plus who doesn't like cooking their own steak to their preference? The two types of soy sauce (fruit/ wasabi) were also fun to alternate between. 

Udon & Sea Urchin Rice Bowl - After the spectacular dishes before, it paled in comparison but nonetheless excellent quality and freshness (also I should note that both the udon and rice was cooked perfectly) . I was actually quite full by this point, and Lee happily ate most of the 'meals' (although I did scrape off and happily eat every last bit of sea urchin leaving him bits of sauce and whole lot of rice)



Taking a quick photo break

Dessert - Sesame Pudding & Ice-cream with nitrogen-frozen Yuzu-Puff (sadly I ate the pudding before taking the photo - which is a pity because it was I was thoroughly impressed with the subtlety of the flavours!) . Oh but the best part about the nitrogen-frozen puff : if you eat it, you can puff out nitrogen smoke from your nose like you're puff the magic dragon.

They also gave us dark chocolate (which we still ate despite being full) and also had promotion on what they called a 'premium belgian beer' that's made in Japan. I know it's pretty silly but despite in the end was rather delicious (but definitely not worth the $16 they charged). 

Overall, it was a great meal and despite it being a splurge we could relax (and even take selfies!) and joke and laugh about the food. If you're looking for a fine-dining experience, I would suggest going else-where but from time to time it's great to be able to eat really excellent food whilst joking around about it with your loved ones :)